Edinburgh in 3 Days: Fringe, Feasts and Falling in Love with Scotlands Capital

Some places just get under your skin and for me, Edinburgh is now one of them.

Through my dad Colin and my step mum Nikki, our partners in travel mischief, I was introduced to Jill and Dave while we were all staying at a beautiful adults only hotel in Majorca. A calm, enclosed resort just steps from the beach, with a pool, spa, gym, buffet restaurant and relaxed communal spaces. It was over good food and sunshine there that we got chatting to Jill and Dave, and before long they had invited us to spend a weekend with them in Scotlands capital, right in the middle of the famous Edinburgh Fringe. How could we say no.

Getting there and the changeover day warning

We flew from Bristol which sounded simple enough until you factor in Cornwall in summer. Changeover day traffic is no joke. What should have been a two hour drive turned into a five hour crawl. Add the fact that we have an electric car and it is always touch and go with charging stops and you can picture the rising stress levels.

By the time we reached the airport it was looking tight, but thankfully the flight was delayed by an hour. We just made it, phew. A cheeky power nap while waiting to take off and a gin and tonic in hand soon had us back in good spirits, ready for the weekend ahead.

When we landed in Edinburgh, our friend Dave was waiting to collect us. No placard unfortunately, we were secretly hoping for that movie moment, but his warm welcome more than made up for it. He whisked us back to their beautiful home just outside of the city, where Jill had been working away all day to get everything ready for our arrival.

Dinner that night was a proper Scottish welcome. My very first haggis, neeps and tatties, and I absolutely loved it. We also met Jill and Daves son Ross and his partner, who joined us for the feast. Just when we thought we could not eat another bite, Jill brought out her homemade lasagne, rich and comforting and impossible to resist. Six bottles of wine later (yes, six), we finally headed to bed, full, happy, and ready for whatever the weekend had in store.

Where we stayed and where I would book next time

We stayed with Jill and Dave about fifty minutes outside the city by bus. When your host has been a bus driver in Edinburgh for over thirty years, you know you are in good hands. Dave knows every route, shortcut and scenic detour, so getting in and out of the city was a breeze.

The buses themselves were a pleasant surprise, clean, friendly and a far cry from some of the experiences I have had in London. It was also the perfect way to ease into the day and quietly recover from the six bottles of wine we managed to get through the night before.

Their hospitality is second to none and we would obviously stay with them every time if we could. Hopefully they will have us back.

If you prefer to be based right in the centre, I can recommend several stylish hotels, including the W Edinburgh, which offers modern design, rooftop views and a prime location for exploring the Royal Mile and New Town. Through my trusted travel partners, I can arrange stays there or at a range of boutique and luxury properties to suit your taste and budget.

Experiences and highlights

Free walking tour

We went to Edinburgh completely blind, having not planned a single thing. Thankfully, Dave had it all covered and had booked us onto a 1 pm free walking tour as part of the weekend itinerary he planned for us.

We started the day with breakfast at Dishoom, a vibrant restaurant inspired by the old Irani cafes of Bombay, with warm wood, soft lighting and buzzing energy. I ordered the Keema Per Eedu: spiced chicken keema, delicate liver pieces, two runny fried eggs and salli crisp chips, served with soft homemade buns. It was the kind of breakfast that carries you happily for hours.

The tour itself was two hours of Edinburgh at its best. We wandered the cobbled Royal Mile, paused by St Giles Cathedral, and listened to the story of Greyfriars Bobby. We stood in the Grassmarket where executions once took place, explored Greyfriars Kirkyard with its Harry Potter inspirations, and shivered through tales of Covenanters Prison and the Martyrs Memorial. Our guide was knowledgeable, funny and completely engaging. We left a generous tip because it was one of the best city tours I have ever taken.

Next time we visit, Mary Kings Close is firmly on the list. This hidden underground world beneath the city is said to be fascinating and a little eerie. It is exactly the kind of place that makes you plan a return visit before you have even left.

Three days is barely enough to scratch the surface. Every turn of a corner reveals another story, another cosy pub, another dramatic view. I am already planning my return.

The Edinburgh Fringe, comedy, energy and a buzz like no other

One of the big reasons we chose this weekend was to dive headfirst into the Fringe. Every August the city transforms. The Royal Mile comes alive with colour, sound and movement. Street performers juggle fire, musicians set the soundtrack, and flyer waving comics insist that their show is the one you simply must see. You cannot help but get swept along.

We had no strict plan, just a couple of tickets and a promise to say yes to what caught our eye. There were little pit stops along the way, a glass of wine here, an Aperol there, because half the joy of the Fringe is people watching from a cafe table and soaking up the atmosphere.

Our three shows could not have been more different, a sharp witted stand up, a high energy one woman show with a cheeky edge, and a Free Fringe gem we wandered into completely by chance. We laughed until our faces hurt and left a generous tip because it was simply too good not to.

The beauty of the Fringe is how easy it is to get lost in it. You go out for one show and find yourself hours later having seen three more, chatted to people from the other side of the world and maybe joined a street act after that last glass of wine. It is chaotic, creative and completely addictive. By the end of the weekend we were already talking about next time.

Food and drink, where we ate and drank a lot

• Friday night: Jill and Daves home cooking. Haggis, neeps and tatties followed by lasagne and a very healthy pour of wine.

• Saturday breakfast at Dishoom: the Keema Per Eedu was rich, spiced, comforting and unforgettable.

• Saturday dinner at Chaophraya: rooftop views across the city, a White Lotus sharing platter with scallops, squid, dumplings and papaya salad, and a Thai red curry with duck. The kind of meal you talk about for days.

• Sunday breakfast at Loudons: bright, airy, and buzzing with locals. Delicious plates and a chance to plan the day.

• Saturday dinner at Amarone: stylish Italian in New Town. My goats cheese panna cotta with fig jam was silky and rich, followed by chicken with creamy porcini and truffle sauce.

• Monday breakfast at Uphall Golf Club: hearty, unfussy and exactly what we needed before the journey home. From there it was straight to the airport for our flight, and then the two hour drive back to Cornwall. Tired, happy, and already talking about when we would come back.

Know Before You Go

Fringe timing

The Edinburgh Fringe runs every August, this year from 1 to 25 August, and is the largest arts festival in the world, with thousands of shows and millions of tickets sold. If you are planning to visit during August, especially over popular weekends, make sure you book accommodation, travel and show tickets well in advance as the best options sell out quickly. It is also worth leaving some space in your itinerary for spontaneous finds. Some of the most memorable performances are the ones you stumble upon by chance.

Getting around

Edinburghs city centre is wonderfully walkable, but public transport is excellent too. Buses, trams and taxis are all reliable, and you can easily explore without needing a car.

• Contactless tap on, tap off travel is now available on buses and some trams, with fares automatically capped at the lowest daily or weekly rate.

• A Lothian day ticket (around £5.50) offers unlimited travel on most buses and trams and is excellent value if you are hopping between sights.

• The tram from the airport to the city centre runs every 7 minutes and is integrated into the same fare system, though airport fares cost slightly more.

• Plan ahead using the Transport for Edinburgh app or real time journey planner to find the quickest routes and next departure times.

Navigating the festival

Leave plenty of time between shows. Even venues close together can take longer to reach when the streets are full, and many performances do not allow latecomers. Expect crowds on the Royal Mile and around the main venues, and build in short breaks for a drink or a quick bite so you can pace yourself.

If you have longer

• Arthurs Seat is worth the climb for dramatic views at sunrise or sunset.

• A whisky tasting is a must, either in a specialist bar or as part of a guided tour.

• Mary Kings Close offers an eerie and fascinating glimpse into the citys hidden underground streets and is reason enough to plan a return trip.

The Black List Escapes tip

For a dash of glamour, book cocktails at The Dome. Think marble columns, sparkling chandeliers and service that makes you feel special. Afternoon tea here is legendary and firmly on my list for next time.

Ready to plan your own Edinburgh escape

Whether you want to experience the Fringe, explore centuries of history or simply eat and drink your way around the city, Edinburgh is a place that keeps you coming back. I am already plotting my return.

Get in touch and I can help you plan your own tailor made Scottish city break, with hand picked hotels, private guides and exclusive dining experiences.

Jason Black – Independent Travel Advisor, InteleTravel UK (ABTA P7384). InteleTravel UK are appointed agents for our ATOL protected travel partners.